3.25.2010

Kyoto Day 2

Our second day in Kyoto, which was also our last, was filled with a tour of some of the major sites of the city.  Unfortunately the Imperial Palace, Kyoto was the original capital of Japan, is closed on the weekends and holidays and our trip fell on both.  :-(

So we woke up bright and early and headed into the lobby to meet our tour group.  Of course, our hotel had a Starbucks in the lobby...we're never too far from home!
Kyoto is called "The Walking City," but we had a chartered bus to take us around the sites. The first stop was...Nishi Honganji - This is a Buddhist temple located in the middle of the city.

Our guide was trying to explain the history of buddhism in Japan and told us that originally it was reserved for only the elite.  They basically told all of the lower-class non-believers that they were going to go to hell.  He ended up comparing it to Catholicism, where to avoid hell, parishioners would pay alms.  Well, he went on to say that this temple is known for being fun, having less rules and believing that simply believing in the Amitabha buddha guarantees a good afterlife.  After Tim heard this, he leans over to me and says "so these guys are like the Lutherans of buddhism?"  I just about died of laughter.  I think he hit the nail on the head.  
This is one of the few temples were pictures were allowed.  So this is the alter area in the main temple.  There is a small buddha in the center area, but it was VERY hard to see. 
It looks like I'm praying, but I was actually just trying to see the buddha.  I can see why they put it down so low and so far back, you have to get on your knees to see it...clever...
This was our group taking pictures in front of the alter.  Surprisingly, people were pretty respectful, but there were some people in the front praying and there were some actual practicing buddhists in our group, so that was interesting.  
And finally, a size comparison with Tim in the foreground and the main temple behind him.  It was huge!
Next, we headed to Nijo Castle, originally a Shogun's castle and famous for its squeaky floors!  Pictures were absolutely forbidden inside the castle, so all I have are some outside photos.  This is the main entrance to the grounds.
The roof of this entrance is actually made from hundreds-year old cypress tree bark.  The palace itself looks like this:
We spent the beginning of our tour in the castle's garden area. 
I love the way they design their gardens, based on Evergreen trees, natural rocks, and water.  All Washingtonians know that Evergreen trees are awesome, but in Japan they are lauded for growing year-round and in sparse environments, making them symbolic of strength, etc.  Water is necessary to live, so obviously it is important in the garden and finally, the rocks represent the mountains.  In all, it's about achieving tranquility.  
While we were in the garden, our guide explained the squeaky floors in the palace.  Obviously, it was to prevent people from sneaking up on the Shogun.  Makes sense!  But here's a picture of the under-side of the floors.  See the two iron stakes?  There's a nail between those that, when the planks are stepped on, is forced between the two pieces and makes the noise.  

After we toured the castle, we headed back to the bus and towards Kinkakuji Temple, better known as The Golden Pavilion!
We took so many pictures here, it's kind of ridiculous!  The whole area is a beautiful garden, with ponds, a waterfall and other temple buildings placed among the trees.  
The temple has a really interesting history, in fact this isn't even the original temple!  The original was burned down by a depressed and suicidal monk, who freaked out while the temple was burning down around him and ran to the nearest mountain, where he blinded and stabbed himself.  They ended up finding him and he spent the rest of his life in jail.  Oh, and after he refused to see his mother while he was in jail, she committed suicide.  Crazy, huh?!  

After we finished our tour of the Golden Pavilion, we headed to the Kyoto handicraft center, where the tour ended.  Tim and I looked around at the goods available, then decided to walk back to Maruyama Park to find the big cherry blossom tree.  On our way we ran into a parade of sorts...
I think it was a political rally, but I have no idea! We did find the tree though!!
Unfortunately, it hasn't fully blossomed yet, but we did find some trees that had blossomed.
Because of all of the crowds associated with whatever the parade was, plus the spring festival, we had a limited amount of time in the park before we had to book it back to our hotel.  We still had to pick up our bags and get to the train station for our afternoon shinkansen train back to Shinagawa.  Thankfully we made it back in time and got to the train station early enough for Tim to take this video:
This is the train arriving and shows the front, which Tim thinks is the best part.  We had a whole two seats to ourselves, which was very nice!
AND we were on the right side to see Mt. Fuji!!!!!!  We lucked out on the weather and it was a clear, beautiful day!
Overall, it was a wonderful trip and we loved visiting Kyoto!

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P.S.  Kyoto was the original capital of Japan, Tokyo is the current one.  They have the same japanese characters.
Kyo - To vs. To - Kyo
I didn't realize this until the tour guide pointed it out...

3.23.2010

Kyoto Day 1

Our trip to Kyoto started at 3:50am on Saturday, that's when I had to wake up.  Not. Fun.  For some reason we can't remember, we decided to take an early departure from the Shinagawa station, an hour by train from our apartment.  Well, this meant we had to leave our place by 4:30, so we could catch the 5:08 express to Shinagawa.  Our Shinkansen (or Bullet Train) was scheduled to leave at 6:23.  I, with my irrational fear of public transportation, literally stayed up all night freaking out about missing this train.  Poor Timmy thought I was going crazy, especially when I got up at midnight and plotted out our entire train trip down to the minute.  :-)

Anyway, we made it to the station and our departing terminal with time to spare!
We figured that with a 2.5 hour train ride, we would be able to catch some Zzz's on the train.  Um, well, evidently when you're so tired you can't get comfortable, this plan doesn't work out so well...
The train was actually very spacious and comfy!  We ended up arriving in Kyoto around 8:30, where we found the subway and made our way to our hotel.  With check-in not starting until 12:00, we dropped off our bags and headed to the Kiyomizu-Dera Temple.  On our way, we crossed the Kamo-Gawa river, where a very, very long group of people were walking along the side. 
My guide book had said to look for the Tainai-meguri when we got to the Temple and that it would be located just to the left of the main entrance.  Well, we ended up at the wrong temple.  I doubt this comes as a surprise! :-) But, after asking around, we found out we were only 10 minutes from Kiyomizu-Dera.  
It's located at the top of a hill in East Kyoto and is surrounded by a huge cemetery.  During our walk, we passed many people carrying flowers and incense to specific markers throughout the entire cemetery.  
Once we got to the temple, we immediately found Tainai-meguri, which is actually quite an interesting experience.  Once we took off our shoes, we descended into complete darkness with only some "buddha beads" along the wall to lead our way.  Once we got to the center, there was a circular tablet, that is spun while the spinner makes a wish.  It's all supposed to represent the descent into a female bodhisattva's womb.  Interesting...
This temple is unique because it actually sits over the hillside and is supported by hundreds columns.  Plus, it's huge. 
It was pretty crowded, but since we don't practice buddhism, we just looked around and stayed out of the worshippers' way.  Another popular spot is the waterfall underneath the large temple.  It is said that the waters, when drunk, have therapeutic properties.  
Like all popular tourist attractions, they had silver "holy cups" for sale for 400 yen.  Probably 99.9% of the people in line just used their hands.  :-)
Here's a picture from the bottom of the temple grounds, as we were leaving:
The road to the temple is lined with touristy shops selling things like fans, chopsticks, and a lot of pottery.  The lane is actually referred to as Teapot Lane.  I would have taken a picture, but about this time, Tim and I were feeling like this:
So instead of continuing our trek through Kyoto, we headed back towards the hotel for lunch and a short nap.  Ha! Short nap! That's funny.  THREE hours later we were refreshed for our evening stroll to Maruyama Park.  
Situated in front of the park, is the Yasaka-jinja Shrine, which we decided to wander through on our way to find the huge cherry blossom tree this park is known for.  We had started to realize that something huge was going on in Kyoto, and it just so happened to be a Spring/Cherry Blossom Festival! So the city was more crowded than usual!
But, when we got to the center of the shrine, we noticed that a large group of people were gathered around a stage, so we joined the crowd and waited.  
What were we waiting for?! Geishas!
Here's a video of the Geishas performing in a rare public appearance...
It was incredibly fascinating because there are so few geishas left in Japan, only about 1,000.  And they're treated like celebrities! Once the performance was over, they had to have a police-escort back into the nearest building.  
We ended our evening with dinner at Miyata Grill, the best steak in Japan!  We had it recommended to us by friends, but even TripAdvisor ranks it #1 out of 727 restaurants in the city. 
And it was SOOOOOOOOOOOO good! Mr. Miyata loves when foreigners come to his restaurants and has each one sign a bill from their country of origin.  He also speaks wonderful English and could not stop giving us food and drinks (even Tim drank Sake!).  Yes, we paid an arm and a leg (and then the other arm and leg), but it was totally worth it!  
Here we are saying "We Love Miyata Grill" with Mr. Miyata.  :-)

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3.21.2010

A preview of things to come...

For the last two days we got to explore Kyoto!

I would love to post all of our pictures, but there are over 400...

I would also love to share all of our anecdotes, but I think the palace, shrines, cherry blossoms, and geishas deserve more love and attention than I have at the moment...

Soooo....instead, I hope this picture (one of my favorites from the trip) will suffice for the time being! :-)

Yes, that is the famous Golden Pavilion!

Look forward to a few posts about this weekend in the coming days!!!

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3.17.2010

Playing Dress Up: Japan Style

I had the best experience yesterday! I got to play dress-up with Kimonos! :-)

This is a program that the community center on base offers every few weeks.  Well, I had found the information a while back and told one of the other wives about it, so she (because she's awesome) made all of the arrangements!

In this first picture, our teacher/dresser (and this is how it sounds, not how it's spelled) Chicago is laying out all of the kimonos we can choose from:
I ended up picking out a yellow kimono with orange, green and blue flowers, an orange and gold obi, and green accessories.  It sounds weird doesn't it?  Well, it looked fabulous!
It was also important for us to put on accurate footwear, the Tabi:
After we had all picked out our kimonos and accessories, Chicago asked for a volunteer to go first.  I'm sure no one is surprised that I volunteered to be the model! 

To start it off, I had to put on the appropriate undergarments.  Well, I'm technically not supposed to show this, so I'll just post an "in-process" photo that doesn't show much...
Yeah, I still had on my jeans and tank-tops, no worries.  

After tying the undergarments on with shreds of fabric, then came the kimono:
Which was, again, tied on as tight as possible at the waist and under the bust line.  The goal with a kimono is to straighten the body and eliminate all the curves we Americans are obsessed with emphasizing.  Also, she's lining up the front so that it's perfectly overlapped.  The left side is always over the right side on living women.  Not until death does the right side go over the left.  That is important to remember! 

The kimonos were actually a little long, so by tying the kimono at the waist, Chicago could shorten it to my height.  Then she added the Obi...
The board, an Obi-ita, is added to the front of the Obi to flatten it even more, keep the Obi from creasing, and create a more uniformed column look.  
The Obi can be tied in a few ways, but mine was tied in a "box bow," Chicago also demonstrated a "butterfly bow."
The accessories were the Obiage, a sash that went along the top of the Obi and kept the bow in place, and the Obijime, the rope tied around the middle of the Obi.  I don't have a good picture of the front of my Obi, but here's an example of one of the other ladies':
The knot of my obijime was a traditional style that represented Happiness, but the other ladies had more contemporary knots that look really cool without having a lot of meaning.  

My final product...
And after everyone was dressed, we had a photo shoot with some accessories Chicago brought:
 



A few more notes about the kimonos:
  • My kimono was a "high-class" kimono because the pattern differed on the right and left-hand sides.  In fact, the right side was pretty plain in comparison.  The other women's kimonos had a uniform pattern over the entire fabric, making them more casual. (Take a look at the final product picture to understand what I mean...) 
  • The kimonos and all the accessories were 100% silk.
  • In Japan, a good quality kimono can cost up to $10,000 U.S. dollars.  Yes, U.S. Dollars! We paid $23 for this experience...I think we got a pretty good deal! 
  • It is a very traditional practice to dress someone in a kimono, there are many rules/traditions/etc. that go into making sure everything is absolutely perfect.  From collar position, to hair, to shoes and other accessories, everything has a meaning.  I don't think there is anything in the mainstream or traditional American culture that compares...if you can think of something, let me know! 

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